The grandeur of an ancient city that repulsed Athens remains to be discovered in Siracusa, or Syracuse. It contains some of Italy's most impressive Greek ruins. The mists of time quickly envelop us as we roll off toward the remains of the encircling wall built by Dionysius I, and the temple to Apollo. Next we head to Piazza Archimede, named after the ancient city's most famous citizen, with its beautiful fountain. Via Roma leads us to the elegant cathedral, its backbone made of Greek columns. Past other baroque monuments in the Old Town area on Ortigia Island such as Benevento del Bosco Palace and the Town Hall, we ride to Arethusa Spring, with its papyrus plants. We pass other landmarks before crossing Umberto Bridge. The Regional Archaeological Museum and Catacombs of San Giovanni are on the way to the Neapolis, where we can see the massive Greek theatre, the Roman amphitheatre and the "Ear of Dionysius," a chamber cut into limestone where Dionysius reportedly imprisoned adversaries so he could hear what they said echoing off the walls.